Southeast of Edinburgh lies miles of lush countryside called The Mairches, or Scottish Borders region. Aptly named for its proximity to the English border, the Scottish Borders is home to haunting castles, historic chapels and countless outdoor activities. It’s here that William Wallace led raids against the British, was named Guardian of Scotland and much of Scotland’s history was forged; yet it’s often overlooked by travelers due to its quiet and subtle nature. We spent three days here for a photo shoot and were awed by its beauty and traditional Scottish flare. With so much to see and explore, anyone who visits to spend a day discovering its natural treasures and unlocking its past won’t be disappointed.
Talla Reservoir, southern Scotland
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Rosslyn Chapel
Our first stop was the illustrious Rosslyn Chapel. Completed in 1484 and made famous by the worldwide best-selling book and film series, The DaVinci Code, Rosslyn Chapel is worth the hype and just as intriguing as Professor Langdon suggests.
The Chapel is located in the village of Roslin, about a 30 minute drive south of Edinburgh city center. Tour busses are available from Glasgow and Edinburgh, but we recommend renting -or as the Scottish would say, ‘hiring’-a car. (The weather in the Borders is similar to much of Scotland: unpredictable with a high chance of wind, fog and rain, no matter what time of year. So be sure to wear pants, layers, comfortable walking shoes that can be used for hiking, and pack a light jacket.)
Entrance to Rosslyn Chapel
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Construction on the Chapel began in 1446 and finished in 1484 when William St. Clair, 3rd Prince of Orkney and founder of the project, died. Once he passed, funding dried up and his grandiose plans for a larger, even more impressive monument were not to be. During excavations in the 1800s, foundations stretching 30 meters beyond the current west end of the Chapel were found, along with drawings in the Crypt showing a much larger structure.
The Chapel as it stands today is still a remarkable testament to Prince Orkney’s faith, wealth and intellect. Inside, hundreds of stone sculptures are carved into the altar alongside a barrel-vaulted roof, walls and support columns. Each carving tells a story from the Bible or local history, and some contain symbols that are unknown in meaning to this day. Take your time to read the placards and purchase a guidebook, or better yet, listen to one of the guides talk about the Chapel’s history. Volunteers lead presentations inside the Chapel every hour or so, providing fascinating details you won’t find in any history book. For example, there are two pillars on either side of the altar, each with its own intricate design. One column was designed by the Master Mason, and upon completion, he travelled to Rome for inspiration to complete the second. While he was away, the apprentice, who dreamt of completing the second pillar himself, did so without permission and the end result was even more beautiful than the first. When the Master Mason returned and saw the work of his apprentice, he was so envious and angry that he struck his pupil with a mallet, killing him on the spot. He was then hung for his actions, and the story is told via carvings on a wall near the back of the main choir section.
After you complete the tour of the Chapel and Crypt, meander around the grounds outside to see more impressive monuments in the yard, as well as additional designs on the buttresses and roof. You can also check out the Rosslyn Inn next door which has hosted famous guests such as King Edward VII and Sir Walter Scott.
Some of the many intricate stoneworkings on the exterior of Rosslyn Chapel
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
St. Mary’s Loch & Kirkyard
About an hour south from Rosslyn’s Chapel is St. Mary’s Loch, but you won’t notice the time because the drive is spectacular. As you wind through the countryside on a two-lane road, you’ll be surrounded by rolling green hills, bright yellow Gorse (an intrusive wild bush that grows everywhere and requires burning with a blowtorch to get rid of, but actually looks beautiful), and fields dotted with brown cows and fluffy white sheep. It’s as if you’re taking a road back in time to when life was more simple and slow-paced, without the hustle-and-bustle of today’s world.
Finally, you’ll reach the secluded St. Mary’s Loch, a small lake with a marina and inn. As you drive alongside the loch, you’ll notice a small area for parking and a blue sign next to the road that simply reads “St. Mary’s Kirkyard” with an arrow pointing up the hill. Drive too fast or gaze at the loch too long and you’ll miss it. Park the car and walk through the gate, being careful to close it behind you so the sheep don’t escape (there are sheep everywhere in this region). The hike is short- about a quarter-mile up a moderately steep incline. It feels like you’re walking blindly into the wilderness with no marked trail or signs of life, but then you see it. At first it looks like a simple rock wall, but as you get closer you begin to make out grave stones and realize this place is anything but ordinary… you’ve reached St. Mary’s Kirkyard.
Gravestones from centuries past resting peacefully in St. Mary’s Kirkyard
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
St. Mary’s Kirkyard is an outdoor church dating back to the 1200s, but that’s not the highlight here. This is the legendary ‘Kirk in the Forest’ where William Wallace (remember Braveheart?) was proclaimed Guardian of Scotland. Years after, this same kirkyard was the site of secret acts of worship by the outlawed Covenanters in the 17th century. Every year to this day, a service is held here in July to commemorate these brave souls who defied the Catholic Church and were prosecuted for their faith.
If you make it to the kirkyard, take the time to sit, relax and allow the magic of this ancient place to take hold of you. Other than a few sheep lazily grazing nearby, there isn’t a living soul for miles in any direction, and the high vantage point allows you to overlook St. Mary’s Loch and the Yarrow Valley in which it resides, with more rolling green hills as the backdrop.
Sheep grazing outside St. Mary’s Kirkyard
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
St. Abb’s Head
From St. Mary’s Loch & Kirkyard head north to the fishing village of St. Abb’s Head, located on Scotland’s southeast coastline. Just outside the village is a nature reserve with coastal hiking trails, a magnificent lighthouse and the highest cliffs in southern Scotland.
Old buoys resting on the seawall in St. Abb’s Head
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
The cliffs are spectacular and look similar to Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher, rising out of the water with near vertical inclines and endless waves crashing against their base. If you’re not interested in hiking, the cliffs are accessible by car and feature multiple parking lots to accommodate visitors. We recommend parking the car and taking a walk along the cliffs, being careful not to get too close to the edge.
As you approach the cliffs, you’ll begin to hear distant cries getting louder with each step, and then an interesting smell will begin to sting your nostrils. When you reach the edge and look over, it looks as if the gray rocks have turned white and the cliffs themselves are moving. Your eyes are not deceiving you; you’re looking down at the largest colony of Gannets in the world. Home to over 150,000 year-round and as many as 500,000 in peak breeding season, these sea-faring birds look and sound similar to seagulls, but with slightly smaller beaks. They live and breed on the cliffs, building nests out of the side of the rock. With some of the world’s most plentiful fishing waters at their doorstep, they have a nearly endless food supply. It’s a unique sight to see.
Looking over the cliffs of St. Abb’s Head Nature Reserve
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
If you continue up the road another half-mile or so, you’ll find a lighthouse perched on the cliff’s edge. Here, many locals and tourists alike bring picnics, sit near the cliff’s edges and enjoy the views.
When you’ve had your fill of hiking and exploring all that the Scottish Borders have to offer (there are many other things to see in the area, including the birthplace of America’s most famous naturalist, John Muir,) head back to Edinburgh or Glasgow on one of Scotland’s many highways.
From St. Abb’s head, driving back to Edinburgh is easy on the A1. Be sure to stop by The Store just outside of Dunbar off one of the large roundabouts. It’s a great café serving breakfast, lunch and fresh-baked desserts and also has a gift shop selling jam, honey, olive oil and other goods from local farms. The staff is friendly and if you visit during peak growing season (July-August) you can pick fresh berries from their farm. If you go in the morning, be sure to order the traditional Scottish breakfast with eggs, toast, thick cut ham and delicious black bread pudding…you won’t regret it!
Tradition Scottish breakfast from The Store
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Seacliff & Tantallon Castle
In a little-known corner of East Lothian lies the white sandy beach of Seacliff that rivals some of the most beautiful in the world. Located off a private road about a half-mile south of the Tantallon Castle visitor center, the beach can be difficult to find, which keeps the tourist crowds away and increases its allure.
Seacliff Beach
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Once you’re there, a short walk from the parking lot through the woods opens up to a glorious landscape of white sand, red cliffs and a small island offshore. Head to the left, around the point and you’ll find another gem, the best views of Tantallon Castle.
Perched on a rocky cliff overlooking the sea, the ruins of Tantallon Castle are what’s left of a once prominent house dating back to the 14th century. The view from Seacliff Beach is spectacular, and in our opinion, the best way to see the castle. To learn more about its history and lineage of previous occupants, visit the visitor’s center for a tour located off Highway A198.
Tantallon Castle from Seacliff Beach
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
About the Author
Matt Thompson is Digital Marketing Manager at TravelSmith. For him, travel is a true passion; particularly exploring and experiencing foreign cultures— from their history to their local cuisine. His thirst for travel has taken him to many destinations, domestic and international, and his favorites (so far) are Greece, Spain and Sayulita, Mexico. Follow his travels on Instagram.
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