Edinburgh is the heart and soul of Scotland, and has been for well over 1,000 years. As once the capital and still the cultural center, Edinburgh has witnessed the rise and fall of kings and queens ruling from Edinburgh Castle, and constructed monuments to display their power and wealth which flourished during medieval times. It has survived the plague, endured savage battles, political (and religious) reformations, and been defended against sieges. With a history dating back to prehistoric times (900 BC to be exact), it’s no wonder Edinburgh is the majestic, beautiful and fascinating city it is today.
Visitors from all over the world flock to Edinburgh to experience its culture, taste its fine whiskies, and witness its natural and architectural beauty. Unlike London, Berlin or even Paris, it’s also one of the few major cities that wasn’t bombed during World War II, leaving many ancient buildings intact for tourists to enjoy today.
Statue of Scottish philosopher David Hume on The Royal Mile
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
The city’s crown jewel and a UNESCO World Heritage site is Edinburgh Castle. The castle receives millions of visitors per year and for good reason: it’s one of the largest, extravagant and oldest fortified structures in all of Europe. Perched on the top of volcanic rock, Edinburgh Castle can be seen from miles and has a 360-degree view overlooking the surrounding town and beyond, providing an excellent vantage point and defensive position. This natural stronghold has been occupied for thousands of years, with new additions built around it to adapt to new military threats and provide a lavish residence for Scottish royalty and its guests.
Located in the heart of downtown, Edinburgh Castle is a must-visit and open daily for tours. Be prepared to walk a lot and we suggest wearing comfortable shoes, the cobblestone streets steps can be unforgiving on your feet. While we’re on the subject, be sure to always wear layers including a long-sleeve shirt, sweater or light jacket and bring something that’s water and wind resistant as the weather in Edinburgh (like all of Scotland) is unpredictable and often includes wind, fog and a light mist.
Once inside the castle, you’ll be able to view the many buildings on the grounds from the Governor’s House to St. Margaret’s Chapel (the oldest building in Edinburgh) to the many batteries, cannons and fortified military positions. Take your time and spend a couple hours exploring, a can’t miss is The Honours of Scotland, the oldest crown jewels in the British Isles, which includes a Crown made for King James V in 1540, the Sceptre presented to James IV around 1494, and the Sword of State presented to James IV by Pope Julius II in 1507. The history of the jewels themselves are eventful and include being buried, hidden under the floors of a nearby church, and stowed away in a Crown Room for a century until finally being uncovered in 1818 by Scottish writer and historian, Sir Walter Scott. After you’ve explored Edinburgh Castle, walk outside to find your next point of interest: The Royal Mile.
The Royal Mile
The Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Stretching from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse (the official residency of the Queen of Scotland) is The Royal Mile. Today, The Royal Mile is comprised of shops, restaurants, pubs and other tourist attractions like The Scotch Whisky Experience (which is worth a visit). But what most people don’t know about is the deep, dark history that lies beneath the cobblestone streets.
Walking along The Royal Mile, you’ll notice alleyways every few feet, these are known as “closes”. Some closes lead to courtyards and apartments, some to restaurants or hotels, and others to nowhere at all. In medieval times these were where the working class lived, and some used to go for miles leading to an underground world. They were named after prominent tenants or members of society that inhabited them, like Dunbar’s Close, Jollie’s Close or Dickson’s Close, each having unique history and legendary tales. For example, there’s a myth that during the plague some closes were sealed off with their inhabitants still inside to prevent the disease from spreading.
Advocate’s Close on The Royal Mile
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
To get an idea of what it was like to live in a close during the 17th century, visit The Real Mary King’s Close for a guided tour. Named after a prominent businesswoman from 1630s, the close is shrouded in mystery with tales of murder, ghosts and a once prominent street market from 400 years ago.
Founded in 1124, St. Giles’ Cathedral is also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh. Located on The Royal Mile outside the old Scottish Parliament building and square, its unique gothic architecture and sheer mass make it a can’t-miss stop. Still a place of worship, it’s the Mother Church of Presbyterianism and contains the Chapel of the Order of the Thistle: Scotland’s company of knights chosen by the Queen. The church is open daily and volunteers offer numerous tours, including one of its rooftop which provides fascinating historical information and amazing views of the city. Other must-sees include its marble Holy Table, stained glass windows, medieval stonework and bells dating back to the 15th century.
St. Giles’ Cathedral and the old Scottish Parliament building
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
As you continue on The Royal Mile, stop in one of the many pubs along the way for lunch, a pint or a sample of fine local whisky. Deacon Brodie’s is a popular place and a great example of Scottish pub culture. Scotland is famous for its wool textiles and there are numerous shops offering scarves, sweaters and other knits. If you’re looking for an authentic kilt, The Royal Mile is the place to pick one up. For fans of Game of Thrones, you can also purchase an authentic Abbeyhorn, a cup made from a cow or reindeer’s horn using ancient traditional methods, as featured on the show.
For an interesting and non-tourist experience near The Royal Mile, check out the National Library of Scotland to view world-class original collections on a variety of subjects. The library includes many literary masterpieces including Darwin’s original work on evolution, the original Frankenstein novel, and over 15 million published works. The Dalai Lama paid a visit here during his time in Scotland, but anyone can make an appointment to view the works by visiting their website.
If you’re looking for a hotel close to the action, we recommend the Macdonald Holyrood Hotel. Located one block off The Royal Mile, this modern hotel offers high end amenities, onsite parking garage and a delicious restaurant, making it the perfect home base for your time in Edinburgh. It’s also the sister hotel to the world-famous Macdonald Rusacks Hotel on the 18th hole of the Old Course in St. Andrews, to give you an idea of the company it keeps.
The Birthplace of Golf
St. Andrews is referred to as the ‘Home of Golf,’ but the first official tournament was played on a five-hole course in Edinburgh called Leith Links in 1744. It was here the first rules were drawn up, 13 in all, that are still the basis for today’s modern game. Today Leith Links is a city park, but there’s a small monument and plaque commemorating the birthplace of one of the world’s oldest sports.
Leith Links, the birthplace of the modern game of golf (note the raised teebox in the background)
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Equally impressive is the oldest golf course in the world, also not located in St. Andrews, but nearby in the town of Musselburgh. It’s here you’ll find Musselburgh Links in the middle of a horse track and holder of the Guinness Book of World Records for oldest golf course in the world, dating back to 1672. Local lore suggests (although there is no written proof) that Mary Queen of Scots played here as early as 1567. Musselburgh Links is also the original home of the Open Championship dating back to 1860, at that time called the ‘General Open Competition.’ It continued to be played here until 1872, when the Old Course at St. Andrews opened and joined the rotation as a venue for the Open Championship.
Plaque inside the clubhouse at Musselburgh Links Golf Course
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Calton Hill & Arthur’s Seat
Located near Scotland’s east coast, Edinburgh’s air is fresh, the wind is brisk and the surrounding landscape is full of verdant green hills and vibrant wildflowers. Nowhere is this more apparent than Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat, located a half-mile east of Edinburgh Castle and The Royal Mile.
The history of Calton Hill dates back to the Bronze Age some 4,000 years ago, and it was used to host medieval festivals and tournaments in the 1400s. In 1724, the Town Council of Edinburgh purchased the land and made Calton Hill one of Britain’s first public parks. During the period of Scottish Enlightenment between the 1760s and 1820s, a number of monuments were built on Calton Hill to display advances in art, science and literature. These include the Nelson Monument, completed in 1816 to commemorate a Navy Admiral who died in battle in 1805, an Acropolis similar to and inspired by Greece’s Parthenon, and the Dugald Stewart Monument which is featured in many photos of Calton Hill.
Portuguese cannon on Calton Hill, captured by the British during the invasion of Burma in 1885 and presented to Edinburgh in 1886
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Located close to the city center, Calton Hill is an easy walk, bus ride or short drive away and worth a visit during your time in Edinburgh. It’s free to enter and fun to walk around, have a picnic or simply enjoy the sights. Its views are spectacular, and second only to Arthur’s Seat.
A mere quarter-mile from Calton Hill and the peak of Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat is a popular place for travelers to explore and locals to bike, run and walk the dog. There are numerous trails to explore and roads leading to the top for easy access, but it’s best to experience on foot to really appreciate the city views, wildflowers and many varieties of local birds. The trails are mostly dirt and a bit steep in some places, so dress accordingly with sturdy shoes for walking or hiking and a backpack or crossbody bag for carrying snacks and water.
Sitting roughly 400 feet above sea level, Arthur’s Seat is one of the four ancient forts of Edinburgh dating back 2,000 years and features St. Anthony’s Chapel, built in the 15th century. From the peak you can enjoy the best views of Edinburgh and beyond to the ocean in one direction, and all the way to Fife in the other.
Looking east to the sea from the top of Arthur’s Seat
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Leith
A former warehouse district, naval harbor and fishing port, Leith has a unique history of its own and was its own burgh (or city) until it became part of Edinburgh proper in 1920. Today, it’s still a fishing port but also home to trendy restaurants, bars and hotels.
The port of Leith
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
One of the main attractions of Leith is the resting place of England’s floating palace and royal yacht, Britannia. Decommissioned as the Queen of England’s royal residence after 44 years of service and traveling one million miles, Brittania is open daily to visitors. Take a self-guided audio tour throughout its many decks to get a rare look inside how the royal family lived, dined and entertained. Learn about daily life on the ship for the royal family, and equally as fascinating, about the crew and security personnel on board who served them. You can also read stories about the many foreign dignitaries, pop culture icons, sports stars and members of British royalty who spent time on the Britannia throughout the years.
The bell aboard Britannia, Edinburgh’s most popular tourist attraction
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
Leith is home to many fantastic seafood restaurants from Michelin-rated to local hangouts. Perhaps the finest restaurant in Leith (and to some, all of Scotland) is The Kitchin. Award-winning chef, Tom Kitchin, who is locally heralded as Scotland’s best, has a simple philosophy of providing locally sourced ingredients from nature to table. The result is the finest, most delicious dining experience one can ask for accompanied by an extensive local whisky and wine list. They even provide a map of where every ingredient on the menu is sourced, all from Scotland.
Wild Scottish sea trout (salmon) confit from The Kitchin
Photo Credit: Matt Thompson
If you’re looking for something more modestly priced but equally delicious, head to Fishers, located at the base of a tower built 300 years ago. Presenting fresh mussels, hake, sardines and other local delicacies, The Shore offers a similar menu. For hotels in Leith, Malmaison is an excellent choice. Modern and sophisticated, but honoring the area’s rich maritime history with unique artwork and decor, it’s a lively boutique hotel offering great views, free Wi-Fi and its own delicious restaurant, Chez Mal Brasserie.
Edinburgh Fringe Festival
Every August, the city hosts a month-long celebration and the largest arts festival in the world: the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. An amphitheater holding thousands is built in front of Edinburgh Castle to host a variety of acts, many of which are free to attend. Across the city, performing arts shows are held in parks, venues, bars and just about anywhere else a crowd can gather. From big names in the world of entertainment to unknown artists looking to build their careers, the festival caters to all tastes and includes theatre, comedy, dance, circus, cabaret, children’s shows, musicals, opera, music, spoken word, exhibitions and special events. In 2015 there were 50,459 performances from 3,314 shows in 313 venues, making it the largest ever arts festival in the world.
Military Tattoo at Edinburgh Castle during the Fringe Festival
Photo Credit: Visit Scotland
The Fringe story began in 1947, when eight theatre groups showed up uninvited to perform at the Edinburgh International Festival, an initiative created to celebrate and enrich European cultural life following World War II. Not being part of the official program didn’t stop the performers; they went ahead and staged their shows on the ‘Fringe of the Festival’ anyway, coining the phrase and name ‘Edinburgh Fringe Festival.’ Each year more performers followed their lead, and in 1958 the Festival Fringe Society was created in response to the success of this growing trend.
If you’re able to visit Edinburgh in August, you’ll be lucky enough to experience this world-famous event referred to by many locals as their favorite time of year.
About the Author
Matt Thompson is Digital Marketing Manager at TravelSmith. For him, travel is a true passion; particularly exploring and experiencing foreign cultures— from their history to their local cuisine. His thirst for travel has taken him to many destinations, domestic and international, and his favorites (so far) are Greece, Spain and Sayulita, Mexico. Follow his travels on Instagram.
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